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The World of Fine Wine, Issue 8, 2005, page 23
Wine Courses
Stuart George and Lucy Rundle investigate some of the many wine courses available in the UK.
Michael Palij MW at Oxford Brookes (attended on 6 June 2005)
In contrast to the lush surroundings of Bank Restaurant and Christie’s, Michael Palij’s WineMatters class takes place in a very functional room on a University campus on the outskirts of Oxford. No canapes here - this is proper study for the Wine and Spirit Education Trust’s Basic Certificate qualification. And you need to bring your own glasses.
WineMatters was established by Palij (who teaches in five countries around the world) ten years ago, and he has tutored over 500 students since then. Palij knows what is required of him on these courses: ‘People want simple answers. Pleasure comes with understanding.’ he told us.
Tim Atkin is entertaining, but Palij is even more gregarious (while remaining completely unpretentious and deeply knowledgeable), illustrating his points with plentiful personal anecdotes such as the one about the winemaker who once commented to him - apropos of the variable quality of Italian wine - that ‘This is Italy - we have FIATs and we have Ferraris’. The appellation system, grapes, soils and climates were the main things to know, said Palij, and he ensured that his students were given all the relevant information pertaining to these. The Bordeaux appellation system, for instance, was likened to nesting dolls - a neat way of summarising a vast topic. People weren’t afraid to ask questions - always a sign of a good speaker.
Palij is a renowned expert on Italy and didn’t disappoint on this country’s wines, remarking - without irony - that ‘I have the greatest sympathy for you when learning about Italian wines’. He emphasised the need (or at least benefit) of drinking Italian wines with suitable food, confessing that he rarely drank wine by itself. He was also very good at (almost) simplifying Germany and it’s labarynthine classification system, beginning with the quip, ‘Here’s the key to understanding Germany: first thing is they’re German’.
Palij was also enthusiastic about Spain, but less so about Portugal, and the wines tasted confirmed this view, though they were mostly of very sound quality. Good examples of classic wines are very important for a formal course like this, but the Inama 2002 Soave du Lot and Giuseppe Mascarello 1998 Barolo Bricco were particularly fine.
Lecturing on the wines of Portugal, Spain, Italy and France with such enthusiasm and knowledge in just a couple of hours is no mean feat. With people like Palij on board, the WSET courses should continue to attract those wanting to learn more about wine.
To contact WineMatters, please e-mail Karen Hyde or telephone +44 7855 026734.
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