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The Oxford Wine Forum – in conjunction with Champagne Laurent-Perrier
Organised by Michael Palij MW and Graham Harding, a full line-up of Masters of Wine were on hand to instruct and entertain during a truly memorable day:
- David Hesketh MW of Laurent-Perrier Champagne on ‘the Magic of Champagne’.
- Richard Bampfield MW, Oxford Wine Club favourite, on ‘the virtues of Bordeaux - Old vs. New’.
- Mark de Vere MW of Robert Mondavi on ‘Terroir in the New World’.
- Bringing a forgotten wine back to life: James Simpson MW on ‘the re-birth of Tokaj’.
Forty pioneers from Oxford and London were treated to an extraordinary day of tasting at Wolfson College, Oxford. It started with Laurent-Perrier’s remarkable Ultra Brut, a wine that held its own right through a David Hesketh MW led champagne tasting that started good and finished great. Laurent Perrier’s own Grande Siècle, Roederer’s Cristal and Pol Roger’s Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill were the final stars of the first tasting. Every wine was meticulously presented by David, representing Laurent-Perrier – generous sponsors of the first Oxford Wine Forum.
A big hand for David Hesketh MW.
A grand line-up of magnificent Champagne (6 out of 10 were in magnums).
The complete line-up was: Laurent-Perrier Ultra Brut; Sainsbury’s Own Label Blanc de Noirs NV; Veuve Cliquot Yellow Label NV; Moët et Chandon Rose; Laurent-Perrier Cuvée Rosé Brut; Laurent-Perrier Vintage 1985; Laurent-Perrier Vintage 1995; Laurent-Perrier La Cuvée Grand Siècle; Louis Roederer Cristal 1997; and Pol Roger Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill.
Second up was Richard Bampfield MW on Bordeaux Old and New. Richard presented three pairs of wines:
- 2001 Exigence d’Yvon Mau, AC Bordeaux Supérieur / 2000 Château Bernadotte, Cru Bourgeois, AC Haut-Medoc
- 1998 Château Camensac, Grand Cru Classé, AC Haut-Medoc / 1999 Château Brown, AC Pessac-Léognan
- Château Léoville-Lascases, Grand Cru Classé, AC Saint-Julien / 1997 La Grange-Neuve de Figeac, AC Saint Émilion
– each representing aspects of old and new Bordeaux and each pair tasted blind. Richard had finished behind Michael Palij MW in the Bordeaux Marathon, possibly because he had – by his own account – stopped at every Château to taste. Here he was definitely master of the occasion. Grand Cru Classé Léoville-Lascases 1997 was the formal star of the show but for many it was beaten by La Grange-Neuve de Figeac. This was ageing faster than the Lascases but gloriously complex in its aroma and flavour.
Richard Bampfield MW in full flow!
After a wonderful lunch provided by Sarah McCleery with the support of The Grange in Watlington we moved onto California and in particular, expressions of terroir in the Napa Valley. Mark de Vere MW did us proud with some remarkable wines from the very top of the considerable Robert Mondavi range. His exposition of the science and study that had gone into producing these wines was striking testament to Mondavi’s determination to produce great wines.
Our thanks go to both Mark for flying over just for us and to Robert Mondavi for donating all the wines for this occassion: 2000 Chardonnay Reserve, Carneros; 2002 Pinot Noir Reserve, Carneros; 2001 Sauvignon Blanc, Stags Leap District; 2001 Fumé Blanc Reserve, To Kalon Vineyard, Oakville; 2002 ‘I Block’ Fumé Blanc, To Kalon Vineyard, Oakville; 2000 Stags Leap District Cabernet Sauvignon; 2000 Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon; 2000 To Kalon Cabernet Sauvignon, To Kalon Vineyard, Oakville.
Lastly, James Simpson MW took us on a tour de force introduction to Tokaj - tradition and innovation. Bricked up cellars, ancient classifications that still hold good today, mould-encrusted bottles, and the fantastic flavours of Tokaj of every puttonyos level from 3 to 6, crowned by the perfect balance and utter complexity of Aszúeszencia. This was the perfect finish to a perfect day.
The full line-up: 2002 Castle Island Furmint; 2000 Oremus Noble Late Harvest; 1993 Crown Estates Tokaji Aszú 3 puttonyos; 1999 Oremus Tokaji Aszú 5 puttonyos; 1993 Crown Estates Tokaji Aszú 5 puttonyos; 1994 Szarvas Tokaji Aszú 6 puttonyos; 1993 Szarvas Tokaji Aszúeszencia.
G. Harding & K. Hyde.
Photos courtesy of I. Crammond.
To the team pourers: Karen Hyde, Sophie Mack Smith and Sophie Rudge “Big shout, Respect and much Happy Bling to all of you. Thanks for supporting the first-ever Oxford Wine Forum is such style. Hope to see you all again next year! Best regards, Michael.”
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