Local Wine Events

Women in Wine

Bordeaux first-growth vertical tasting and super-dinner

hosted by MICHAEL PALIJ MW

Thursday 7 October 2004 at Fallowfields Country House Hotel & Restaurant

Château Latour is one of Bordeaux’s and, indeed, the wine world’s most famous names. A champion of power and structure, Latour eschews the elegance of Lafite and the aromatic complexity of Mouton and is perhaps the most consistent of the First Growths (certainly more so than Lafite or Margaux). Impressive in its youth, Latour nevertheless packs on even more weight and complexity as the years drift by and ‘supple’ is an adjective which it never justifies. Even truly venerable examples are more iron fist than velvet glove. 

Drinking first growth claret inevitably brings with it a warm glow; tasting a string of vintages is surely the stuff of legends. We explored the unique combination of natural elements that constitute the "Terroir" of Château Latour including their proximity to the Gironde, their uncompromising vinification, and their rigorous selection in the vineyards. The tasting compared and contrasted six decades:

2000 Pauillac; 2000 Les Forts de Latour; 2000 Grand Vin de Château Latour; 1997 Grand Vin de Château Latour; 1991 Grand Vin de Château Latour; 1980 Grand Vin de Château Latour; 1970 Grand Vin de Château Latour; 1966 Grand Vin de Château Latour; 1956 Grand Vin de Château Latour; and 1955 Grand Vin de Château Latour.

The venue for the evening was Fallowfields Country House Hotel and Restaurant. Recently given three 'dining awards' by the RAC, it has been described by one gourmet guide as "one of the best hotel restaurants in the County". Fine food was prepared for us by Head Chef, Charles Leenders, who is passionate about using natural and home-grown produce.

Wellingtonia gourmet menu

Chef’s surprise

Duck foie gras terrine; spicy pain brioche; fig chutney; roasted fig; Black Mountain liquor dressing

Chef’s granite

Oxfordshire raised Hereford beef fillet; ragoût of asparagus, wild mushrooms and broad beans; carrots slow cooked in orange juice and garlic

Warmed dark chocolate, walnut and almond nougatine surprise, dark chocolate tagliatelle, pistachio ice cream

Selection of English and French cheeses

Coffees, teas and tisanes selection, served with homemade petit fours.

Some personal reviews:

• “A night to remember!

Fortunately, we can still remember it (just about), despite drinking significant quantities of several unbelievable wines. We started with the 2000 Les Forts de Latour (the “second wine” of the estate) which was beautifully balanced with fine tannins and good length - an indication of what was about to come with the next wine. This was the 2000 Grand Vin which, despite its youth, was completely stunning. For many of us this was our first “Parker 100-pointer” and although we may disagree with many of the great man’s assessments, it would be hard to dispute this one. The nose was powerful with smoky, chocolate and spice aromas, followed by a palate full of complexity and promise. If you bought any of this en primeur, you did well! In a way, it was a shame to start with such a fantastic wine: however, several of the later vintages also lived up to expectations. We sampled a range of vintages from the less good (1991, 1997), through to the exceptional (1970 and 1955). It was fascinating to compare the 1956 vintage (with a wet dog, cabbage-like nose and a slightly acidic palate) with the 1955 (lovely ripe red fruit, great balance and length). Along with Michael’s usual informative and entertaining descriptions and anecdotes, it was a pleasure to have been there to taste such amazing (and amazingly different) wines.

After the tasting, we moved into the Wellingtonia Restaurant (along with the remains of all the favourite bottles!), where we indulged in the delicious creations of Fallowfield’s head chef, including a main course of local Charolais beef with a medley of late summer vegetables grown in the hotel’s gardens. Completely sated, some of us then staggered up to our bedrooms (unfortunately too tired to make use of the spa bath!). The breakfast the following morning was also worthy of mention; the eggs and bacon (again from local suppliers) were amongst some of the finest we have tasted (and we’ve been around!).

All in all, it was a truly splendid evening - outstanding wines, excellent food and delightful company - what more could one ask for (except a few more bottles of the 1970 vintage)?”  SE Adams

• "A succint and professional insight was given by MP into the historical background and production techniques of the famous Latour vineyards spanning five decades. We experienced a surprising range of tastes which teased the palate and were as diverse as the years themselves. A rare and truly exceptional experience - one of life's rich cameos merely enhanced by an exquisite meal in the Wellingtonia restaurant."  S Rudge parents

• "... I think we generally settled on the '55 and the '70 with the '55 being the outright winner - a very marked contrast to the '56! It has not been easy these last few days settling back into the 'kitchen wines' but somehow I suppose we will re-adjust to drinking our lesser everyday wines again... Thank you for a truly memorable evening"   S Rudge guests